The Essential Guide to Sewing Machine Needles
If you’ve ever experienced skipped stitches, fabric snags, or broken threads while sewing, your needle might be to blame. Sewing machine needles are small but mighty tools that play a crucial role in achieving professional results. Let’s break down the basics of sewing machine needles, so you can choose the right one for every project.
Parts of a Sewing Machine Needle
Before diving into types and sizes, it helps to know the basic parts of a needle:
- Shank – The top part that fits into the sewing machine. It has a flat side to ensure proper positioning.
- Shaft – The body of the needle, which determines its strength and flexibility.
- Eye – The hole through which the thread passes.
- Point & Tip – The part that penetrates the fabric. Different points are designed for different materials.


You can buy Universal Needles by size (pictured left, 80/12) or buy an assortment of sizes (pictured right). You can find these sewing machine needles, plus a large selection, all on Missouri Star Quilt Co. or click here!
Types of Sewing Machine Needles
Using the right needle type prevents damage to fabric and ensures smooth stitching. Here are some common needle types:
- Universal Needles – A great all-purpose option for woven and knit fabrics.
- Ballpoint (Jersey) Needles – Designed for knits, these have a rounded tip to prevent snags.
- Stretch Needles – Ideal for elastic fabrics like spandex and swimwear.
- Jeans/Denim Needles – Extra strong with a sharp point to handle thick, heavy fabrics.
- Microtex (Sharp) Needles – Perfect for delicate or tightly woven fabrics like silk and lightweight cotton.
- Quilting Needles – Designed to sew through multiple fabric layers with ease.
- Embroidery Needles – Have a larger eye to accommodate decorative threads.
- Leather Needles – Feature a wedge-shaped point to pierce leather and other non-woven materials.
Needle Sizes and When to Use Them
Needle sizes are indicated by two numbers, such as 80/12. The first number is the European size, and the second is the American size. Here’s a general guide:
- 60/8 – 70/10 – Lightweight fabrics like silk and chiffon.
- 80/12 – 90/14 – Medium-weight fabrics like quilting cotton and linen.
- 100/16 – 110/18 – Heavy fabrics like denim and canvas.
- 120/19+ – Extra-heavy materials like upholstery fabric.


You can find these sewing machine needles and more by clicking here!
How Often Should You Change Your Needle?
A dull or damaged needle can cause skipped stitches and fabric damage. A good rule of thumb is to change your needle:
- After 8-10 hours of sewing.
- When switching to a different fabric type.
- If you hear a popping sound as the needle enters the fabric.
Final Stitch
The right needle can make all the difference in your sewing projects. By choosing the correct type and size, you’ll achieve better stitch quality, prevent frustration, and keep your machine running smoothly. Next time you start a project, take a moment to consider your needle—you’ll be glad you did!
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