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Cotton vs. Polyester Thread: 6 Key Differences

The thread you choose can make or break a project. Cotton and polyester are the two most common options, and while they look similar on the spool, they behave differently.

Thread CharacteristicsCotton threadPolyester thread
StrengthGoodHigh tensile strength, less likely to break
StretchMinimalSlight stretch that moves with the fabric
FinishSoft, matteWide range, including shiny and variegated
HeatHandles a hot iron wellCan melt at very high heat
LintMore lintLess lint, cleaner machine
WashingCan shrink slightlyResists shrinking and fading

When to Use Polyester Thread

  • Garment sewing, especially stretchy knits and activewear
  • Home décor like curtains, cushions and upholstery that see wear
  • Machine embroidery, where color and sheen make designs pop
  • Outdoor projects, since it resists moisture and UV

Polyester and Specialty Threads to Try

Looking beyond cotton? Missouri Star carries 40 wt polyester thread in coordinated sets, including the Autumn and Blues trios shown below. Both are options for machine embroidery and other sewing projects. For decorative stitching, try the silver polyester metallic thread. For nearly invisible appliqué or quilting stitches, MonoPoly Clear is a very fine polyester monofilament. These specialty threads behave differently from ordinary sewing thread, so follow the manufacturer’s needle and tension guidance and test on scraps first.

When to Use Cotton Thread

  • Piecing quilts with cotton fabric, where many quilters like the matched fiber and matte look
  • Projects that need a hot iron
  • Natural-fiber projects for people who prefer them
  • Hand quilting and hand sewing, where a soft thread feels nice to work with

Which Is Better for Quilting?

It depends on who you ask. Many quilters piece with cotton to match their cotton fabric. Others use polyester because it is strong and makes less lint. Both are fine. Whichever you pick, buy quality thread, because cheap thread breaks, frays and fills your machine with lint. Test a few on a scrap of your project fabric before you commit.

Match Needle and Weight

Thread weight and needle size need to go together. See choosing the right thread weight and choosing the best sewing needle. For quilt piecing in particular, read what thread works best for piecing quilts and our polyester vs. cotton thread guide.

Browse thread at Missouri Star. Which do you use? Tell us in the comments!

Happy sewing!
Beth

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